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Ireland - West & Northwest

Ballyliffin – Glashedy Links

Located alongside the Old Course but on higher ground, the Glashedy Course offers gorgeous views of the Atlantic and the Inishowen Peninsula. Designed by Pat Ruddy and Tom Craddock, Ballyliffin's "new" course opened in 1995. Like its older brother, Glashedy winds its way through towering, grass-covered dunes. Unlike the Old Course, though, the fairways here are fairly flat. Unfortunately, this does not mean it's easy. In fact, not only is the Glashedy Course much longer than the Old Course it's considered to be a lot tougher. And that means if the wind is strong — which is often the case — you should avoid the 7,226-yard championship tees. Glashedy is a good test, but it's also fun and fair.


Ballyliffin – Old Course

Founded in 1948, Ballyliffin is Ireland's most northerly golf club and home to two very enjoyable layouts: the Old Course and the Glashedy Course. The Old Course was basically designed by its members over the years, finally becoming an 18-hole tract in 1973 (with the assistance of architect Eddie Hackett). This rugged-looking links layout along the shore of the Atlantic measures 6,612 yards from the back tees and is often referred to as the "Ballybunion of the North." As traditional as they come, the Old Course features firm and fast conditions, undulating fairways, hidden pot bunkers and well-guarded greens. Two excellent choices for accommodations in the area are the Inishowen Gateway Hotel in Buncrana, and the Rossaor House just down the road from the club.


Bearna

Located just 10 minutes west of Galway City, Bearna Golf Club is an R.J. Browne design that opened in 1996. Built in a rare marshy area, Bearna is a moorland-style layout that measures 6,752 yards from the championship tees. Because of its location, the course has water on 13 of the 18 holes and it is known for its excellent condition. Rather than tall dunes and deep rough, Bearna features large clumps of golf ball-gobbling gorse and heather. The greens here are also some of the biggest in this part of western Ireland. From the golf course, players get gorgeous views of the Claire Hills, an ancient rocky area called The Burren, and the Aran Islands out in Galway Bay.


Carne (Belmullet)

Also known as Bellmullet, this spectacular links was the last course designed by the great Irish architect Eddie Hackett. Opened in 1995, Carne was ranked the 12th best course in Ireland by Golf Digest in 2005. It's hard to imagine, but the towering grass-covered dunes here are said to be even taller than those at Ballybunion. The course winds its way through and around these high dunes, and many are used as backdrops to greens. The fairways rise and fall, the rough is deep, there are numerous blind shots, and the pot bunkers are challenging. In other words: links golf at its best. From the tips, Carne measures a reasonable 6,742 yards. In addition to overlooking the Atlantic and Blacksod Bay, this exceptional links layout provides sensational views of the Inis Gloire and Inis Geidhe islands.


Connemara

Founded in 1969 (and also known as Ballyconneely), Connemara Golf Club opened its original 18 holes in 1973. Eddie Hackett and Tom Craddock get credit for this very challenging links layout. Off to the south and west lies the Atlantic Ocean; off to the east stand the majestic Maamturk Mountains and the range known as the Twelve Bens. Thanks to its firm and fast conditioning, Connemara can sometimes play shorter than its championship tee measurement of 7,272 yards. That is, if the wind is down and the numerous bunkers are avoided. The flatter front nine is often overshadowed by the tough back nine. Tall grass-covered dunes and three par 5s over the last five holes make the finish here more than memorable. In 2001, a third nine of links-style holes was added by architect Donald Steel.


Donegal (Murvagh)

Donegal Golf Club was founded in 1959 and is also known as "Murvagh" because of its location on the tip of the Murvagh Peninsula. The club's present course was designed by Eddie Hackett and opened in 1976. Due to its setting, players are provided with wonderful views of the Atlantic, Donegal Bay and the Bluestack Mountains. Much like famed Muirfield in Scotland, the first nine holes at Donegal loop around the outside of the inward nine. At nearly 7,300 yards from the championship tees, this is one of the longest links layouts in Ireland and Britain — and it can play even longer if the wind is up. A good choice for accommodations is the nearby Sand House Hotel. This former 19th Century fishing lodge offers 45 rooms, an elegant restaurant and a lively lounge.


Doonbeg

There was quite a buzz about this course when it opened in 2002. The accolades turned out to be true: Golf Digest named it the "Best New International Course" that year. In 2005, GD ranked it the 14th best course in all of Ireland. Designed by Hall of Fame golfer Greg Norman, Doonbeg gives the impression to many golfers that it has been here forever. Built on a 1.5-mile stretch of wild terrain along Doughmore Bay, the course features towering dunes, natural hazards, plenty of wind, views of the Atlantic on 16 of the 18 holes, and a back-tee measurement of 6,885 yards. On three occasions, holes cross each other. In addition (depending on the wind), Doonbeg's signature hole — the 111-yard, par-three 14th — can be played with anything from a sand wedge to a long iron.


Enniscrone

One of Ireland's best-kept secrets, Enniscrone is a fabulous links course set on the shores of Killala Bay. The Eddie Hackett layout features all the characteristics of seaside golf with sand dunes, humps, hollows, thick rough, and fast greens. It's one of the Northwest's best tracks and well worth the two-hour trek north of Galway.


Lahinch – Castle Course

Lahinch's other course is much less famous and much less challenging, but it's a good way to get your first taste of links golf (and to get ready for the tougher Old Course). Named for the ruins of a castle that can be found on the property, the original nine holes were designed by John D. Harris and built in 1971. The second nine at the Castle Course were designed by Donald Steel. Located right across the road from the Old Course, the Castle Course only measures 5,653 yards from the back tees. If the wind is blowing hard off the Atlantic, however, the Castle Course will quickly turn into a good test.


Lahinch – Old Course

The Old Course at Lahinch Golf Club is one of the most famous links layouts in the world. It was "designed" in 1897 by Old Tom Morris (of St. Andrews, Scotland fame), then redesigned in 1927 by Alister Mackenzie (of Augusta National fame). Other architects have tinkered with it over the years but have wisely kept its interesting and charming holes intact. The bottom line is that it is links golf at its finest, and often quite quirky — which only adds to the enjoyment. Towering dunes, blind shots, pot bunkers and wind off the sea make the Old Course a very challenging tract. Even though it only measures 6,700 yards from the championship tees, Golf Digest ranked it the No. 2 course in Ireland in 2005 — right behind Ballybunion's Old Course. High praise indeed.


Portsalon

Before it was remodeled in 2002, the links at Portsalon Golf Club (founded in 1890) was considered a throwback to the 19th Century and a bit quirky. Today, it's considered one of Ireland's best kept secrets and a "must play." Architect Pat Ruddy has done a masterful job with this historic links, improving its playability while retaining its charm and character. The course runs alongside the beautiful beach of Ballymastocker Bay and features sensational views of nearby Lough Swilly and the Knockalla Mountains. Typical of a links layout, most of the holes at Portsalon weave their way through tall, grass-covered sand dunes. The bunkers are numerous and the rough is often deep. This area, by the way, is one of the windiest in Europe so pick your tees wisely. From the championship markers, Portsalon measures just under 7,100 yards.


Rosapenna – Old Course

Like Lahinch, Rosapenna Golf Club has a long history. Unlike Lahinch, Rosapenna is not nearly as well known — perhaps due to its somewhat remote location here in northern Donegal. For golfers who don't like lining up for a tee time, this is a good thing. Old Tom Morris laid out the original 18 holes in 1893. Shortly after the turn of the last century, fellow British Open champions Harry Vardon and James Braid increased the bunkering and added length to the old links. Today it measures 6,514 yards from the back tees. Rosapenna's first ten holes run between the Atlantic and the nearby dunes, while the final eight are inland and on higher ground, affording stunning vistas of the ocean. After golf, comfortable accommodations and fine dining are available at Rosapenna's four-star hotel overlooking Sheephaven Bay.


Rosapenna – Sandy Links

Instead of running alongside the beautiful dunes near the beach like Rosapenna's Old Course, the resort's new course — Sandy Links — heads straight through them. Opened in 2003 and designed by Pat Ruddy, Sandy Links was clearly built with a big-time championship in mind. Yet while it is traditional in appearance, it's much more American in style. The fairways look narrow from the tee but are actually quite wide. The well-bunkered greens are large as well, but most are elevated — which will negate the bump-and-run shot so often used on links courses. What else is traditional is the deepness of the rough and bunkers and the strong winds that blow off the water. And all three can make this lovely layout play even longer than its 7,155-yard championship-tee yardage. Fortunately, there are several tees to choose from.


Rosses Point (County Sligo)

Founded in 1894, County Sligo Golf Club is better known throughout the golfing world as Rosses Point (the name of the peninsula that it sits on). Located on the shores of the Atlantic, the original course here was redesigned by H.S. Colt in 1927. Seventy-eight years later (2005), Golf Digest said it was still the 6th-best course in the country. Not particularly long at 6,606 yards from the championship tees, this lovely links layout is nonetheless a good challenge for even better players. Each year, the West of Ireland Amateur Championship is held here. On one side is the ocean; on the other is the massive Benbulbin Mountain. Also overlooking Rosses Point is Mt. Croagh Patrick, one of Ireland's holiest sites. Sligo is also W.B. Yeats country. The poet grew up here and is buried not far away.


Westport

Westport Golf Club is considered to be one of Ireland's finest parkland-style layouts. The club itself was founded in 1908 but eventually moved three times before settling into its present site on Clew Bay. The beautiful golf course here was designed by Fred Hawtree and opened in 1973. Views of Westport Harbor, Clew Bay and Croagh Patrick are common and inspiring. Westport measures nearly 7,000 yards from the back tees and has been the site of several major events. The Ladies Home Internationals was held at Westport in 1989, the Irish Amateur Close Championship was conducted here on three occasions, and in 2002 it was the site of the Smurfit Irish PGA Championship (won by Paul McGinley).



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